Devon has always been on my list of places to visit, and last weekend finally brought the perfect opportunity to go, with the rare promise of sunshine from start to finish.

I stayed in the most delightful ​bed and breakfast in the serene Devon countryside, at Kerswell Farmhouse, hosted by the wonderful Nicola and Graham, who couldn’t have been more welcoming – full of local knowledge and thoughtful recommendations.  

Dinner on Friday was at Circa – a Michelin-recommended small plates restaurant with a focus on ferments and organic farming. The venison carpaccio was outstanding, and the fig leaf oil was quite the revelation. After dinner came an evening stroll through Totnes which revealed itself to be a delightful town, full of character, independent shops and lively pubs.

Saturday morning began with a hearty English breakfast featuring freshly laid eggs from Nicola’s hens and her home-grown tomatoes. Then it was off to Blackpool Sands, a beach that came highly recommended and more than delivered. Walking across the pebbles felt like an aggressive but oddly satisfying foot massage. A forgotten swimsuit and freezing sea didn’t get in the way of a good few hours in the sun.

Next stop: Salcombe, undeniably a Sloane Ranger hotspot, with no shortage of yachts and overpriced clothing, but sadly it did not live up to the hype. Across the water (by ferry or car) Mill Bay (below) offered a quieter alternative, with soft sand and a perfect spot for a beach picnic. That said, the petrol from the boats did leave a film on the water – not ideal for swimming. Sunny Cove, just a little further along, looked equally inviting, though time was ticking.

Dinner that night was at Kendricks, which serves excellent monkfish, followed by a saunter around Dartmouth, and a blissfully quiet evening back at Kerswell. Not a car to be heard – which was a welcome change from Bath.

Sunday morning it was time for a little adventure on the Dartmouth Steam Railway to Paignton. Outside of school holidays, it’s easy enough to get a ticket on the day. For £3, the ‘Devon Belle’ carriage offers a better view – worth opting for on the return journey, when the engine isn’t obstructing the scenery. The carriage (pictured below) was built in 1917 and spent a lot of its prior life on routes along the Scottish highlands!

Paignton itself doesn’t need more than an hour or so, though if a misread timetable leaves a bit of extra time, there’s a decent market with a charming stall selling Buddha statues, and a variety of balms and menthol inhalers from Thailand. A seat outside the Harbour Light pub also offers a nice view of Paington Sands and a refreshing drink, whilst waiting for the train back.

After a tootle back to town and some shopping (where I bought a new shell necklace and bracelet from Pineapple Island, which matched perfectly to my Rixo dress), it was time for yet another tour on the Dartmouth River Cruise. Highlights included Agatha Christie’s holiday home, Dartmouth Castle, and Dartmouth Naval College, where the late Queen Elizabeth II first met Prince Phillip (her appointed escort), aged just 13.    

Before heading home, there was just enough time for one last meal at Andria’s, another small plates spot which came highly recommended. The scallops, croquettes, cod and beef were all spot-on – not too fussy and beautifully cooked. However, the prices around Dartmouth in general are little eye-watering.

All in all, I could have not been more pleased with my first foray into Devon. With a car, it’s a perfectly manageable weekend from most places in the South – though anyone coming from further afield might want to add an extra day to make the most of it.

Enjoy!

⚜️ Rowan